Also, I now have four drills, which will make life so nice.
30 November 2011
Sneak peak
Sneak peak at a project that hopefully will be complete in the next week or so. It's a huge upgrade, and that's all the hint I'll give.
Also, I now have four drills, which will make life so nice.
Also, I now have four drills, which will make life so nice.
20 November 2011
Sunday musings
Something is like to look at in the layout of the shop is a place to use multiple tools, a multi tool table if you will. I need a spot where I can set up my Kreg jig, as with the table saw inside the outfeed of stock will hit it where it is. I'd also like to set up a joiner jig with my HF joiner, as the fence is crap. This could also be a place where a bench grinder could go, as well as my WorkSharp.
The problem, as always, is space. I do have a couple of ideas though. One is to take inspiration from my tall sander stand and make a semi-portable stand with removable inserts. I think I will start out with this and see how it works with stability. This is a very low-cost experiment. When I start I will detail the plan.
The other option, and a possible long-term solution, is to make a new bench that extends the width of the back wall, as was the plan early on in the renovation strategy. With current space concerns, this would have to wait until I possibly make a combination table saw stand/router table.
I'll be playing around with Sketchup some this week and will try to throw some rough drafts of what I'm thinking about.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
The problem, as always, is space. I do have a couple of ideas though. One is to take inspiration from my tall sander stand and make a semi-portable stand with removable inserts. I think I will start out with this and see how it works with stability. This is a very low-cost experiment. When I start I will detail the plan.
The other option, and a possible long-term solution, is to make a new bench that extends the width of the back wall, as was the plan early on in the renovation strategy. With current space concerns, this would have to wait until I possibly make a combination table saw stand/router table.
I'll be playing around with Sketchup some this week and will try to throw some rough drafts of what I'm thinking about.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
17 November 2011
Brrr
It hasn't even gotten really cold yet and shop time has already been cut substantially. That, and there are some really compelling video games out there now that have been taking up some of my spare time.
The only things I have to update that are shop related is I have a couple new container boxes that I'm going to try and get most of my screws into and have some sort of storage for. Really, that's it. I'm hoping this weekend I can work on a planer sled, perhaps also work on somewhere to put my Kreg jig.
I'm thinking about working on some tool profiles in order to fill the lean season and keep the blog going.
The only things I have to update that are shop related is I have a couple new container boxes that I'm going to try and get most of my screws into and have some sort of storage for. Really, that's it. I'm hoping this weekend I can work on a planer sled, perhaps also work on somewhere to put my Kreg jig.
I'm thinking about working on some tool profiles in order to fill the lean season and keep the blog going.
07 November 2011
Marching along
Had the opportunity Saturday and Sunday to do a bit of cleaning and rearranging in the shop to get it closer to what I consider my vision. And I have to say, with some minor exceptions the layout is complete.
Saturday was just some minor cleaning, and Sunday I started by putting casters on my sander stand and moving the scrap plywood that was occupying it's future home. After that was done, I checked the height and I don't think I'll have to make any modifications to it to get it to fit. I'm not sure what I will do with the storage space I built in to the stand. I was considering putting sandpaper and sanders there, but I'm not sure. There's room to put something there for sure. Perhaps my Work Sharp could live there if the paper doesn't.
I had some additional time after that short assignment so I set out to make one of the last major changes to the shop orientation - making room for the saw. Now to do that involved moving other stuff, but since that was the goal I'll call it that. First thing was to clear the corner where the router table would go. I moved the paint cans to a temporary spot and walked the drill press out of the way. The router table slid over to it's new home and I took down the drill bits off the wall and hung the router cubby in it's new home. That done, I could worry about getting the drill press over to the other side of the door. I'm not completely happy with how it turned out, but it makes the shop flow so we'll see. I have put a few of the bins on the floor in that corner, and found that they might be able to stay there for awhile. But truth be told, I still have a glaring need for sheet goods storage in my shop, and it will have to be addressed.
With the router table and drill press in their new homes, the table saw cozied up to the table and will work just fine, I think.
As you can see from the pictures, I still have a good deal of work to do before I can see the finish line. Sheet goods storage is a priority, as is cleaning up the rack on the wall. I need to buy and fit the riser for the bandsaw, as well as invest in some good blades and a fence. I just ordered a Shark Guard for the table saw, I figured it was about time. I'll have more on this closer to when it will arrive. With that purchase, the bandsaw stuff will have to wait until 2012. As far as construction goes, the walls still need to be replaced with 7/16 OSB. I also need to decide if I want to paint said walls to lighten things up. The ceiling needs to be replaced with the same, and I have to decide if I want to use some pot lights or something else that could be run off batteries.
The doors need to be replaced, for security and insulation purposes. I'd also like to get a nice new window installed so I can close and open it easily. Besides, the one in there now is permanently partially open. As for the floor, I was thinking about adding a durable interlocking mat system to cover the entire thing. I also would like to fix the (nowhere near) level of the shop, but that will require a lot of doing. Insulation under the floor will probably happen at the same time. Want to build or buy a corner cabinet for my detailing equipment to go into. May check a Habitat Store for that.
And finally, the big piece of the puzzle - the Holzapffel bench. Not sure if that will start in the spring or I will need to first get the structure of the shop sorted first. This thing is going to be heavier than the shop.
Pics coming shortly - like within the hour. Ok, maybe 4.
Saturday was just some minor cleaning, and Sunday I started by putting casters on my sander stand and moving the scrap plywood that was occupying it's future home. After that was done, I checked the height and I don't think I'll have to make any modifications to it to get it to fit. I'm not sure what I will do with the storage space I built in to the stand. I was considering putting sandpaper and sanders there, but I'm not sure. There's room to put something there for sure. Perhaps my Work Sharp could live there if the paper doesn't.
I had some additional time after that short assignment so I set out to make one of the last major changes to the shop orientation - making room for the saw. Now to do that involved moving other stuff, but since that was the goal I'll call it that. First thing was to clear the corner where the router table would go. I moved the paint cans to a temporary spot and walked the drill press out of the way. The router table slid over to it's new home and I took down the drill bits off the wall and hung the router cubby in it's new home. That done, I could worry about getting the drill press over to the other side of the door. I'm not completely happy with how it turned out, but it makes the shop flow so we'll see. I have put a few of the bins on the floor in that corner, and found that they might be able to stay there for awhile. But truth be told, I still have a glaring need for sheet goods storage in my shop, and it will have to be addressed.
With the router table and drill press in their new homes, the table saw cozied up to the table and will work just fine, I think.
As you can see from the pictures, I still have a good deal of work to do before I can see the finish line. Sheet goods storage is a priority, as is cleaning up the rack on the wall. I need to buy and fit the riser for the bandsaw, as well as invest in some good blades and a fence. I just ordered a Shark Guard for the table saw, I figured it was about time. I'll have more on this closer to when it will arrive. With that purchase, the bandsaw stuff will have to wait until 2012. As far as construction goes, the walls still need to be replaced with 7/16 OSB. I also need to decide if I want to paint said walls to lighten things up. The ceiling needs to be replaced with the same, and I have to decide if I want to use some pot lights or something else that could be run off batteries.
The doors need to be replaced, for security and insulation purposes. I'd also like to get a nice new window installed so I can close and open it easily. Besides, the one in there now is permanently partially open. As for the floor, I was thinking about adding a durable interlocking mat system to cover the entire thing. I also would like to fix the (nowhere near) level of the shop, but that will require a lot of doing. Insulation under the floor will probably happen at the same time. Want to build or buy a corner cabinet for my detailing equipment to go into. May check a Habitat Store for that.
And finally, the big piece of the puzzle - the Holzapffel bench. Not sure if that will start in the spring or I will need to first get the structure of the shop sorted first. This thing is going to be heavier than the shop.
Pics coming shortly - like within the hour. Ok, maybe 4.
03 November 2011
Bandsaw upgrade, part 1
(Part 1 of a proposed 3)
It's starting to finally feel like fall in Georgia, and that means less work out in the shop since it's not heated, or particularly well insulated. The insulation part I hope to have remedied by next winter, but we'll see. That involves getting the low side jacked up and on a skid, then putting insulation under the floor, since I'm sure there's not any. Plus, a new window and new doors. I think everything but getting it level is realistic, and could probably get done this winter if I really set my mind to it. But the point is, I'm not going to be doing a bunch of projects out there for a few months. So my attention is turning to continuing the shop reorganization and some upgrades to some of my tools.
I have a Central Machinery 14" bandsaw. This is a decent basic bandsaw, but at the price point it's lacking in a couple of things that the pricier versions have. One of those things is a decent power switch.
On the CM, the power switch is located on the base, a very awkward position to turn on. I suppose one could use their foot to turn it off, but it's not natural. So, I ordered a push-button paddle switch from MCLS. There's already mounting holes for it, since the saw is a copy/same thing of the other 14" import saws elsewhere available. Installation is fairly straight-forward, but can be time consuming thanks to the strain reliefs and any holes you might want to thread it through. A thirty minute job can stretch into two hours easily when you figure out you have to backtrack some to get one little connector on. And so it did for me, although it turned into two days because I had almost finished when it got too dark. Then I almost finished again when it was time to eat lunch.
The switch is located on the C-arm of the saw, between elbow and shoulder height. Much more usable, and it comes with a paddle off switch, and a lockout for the on position. Meaning, you have to pull the paddle out and then hit the on button for it to work.
What I did was I removed the stock switch from the base, and disconnected all the wires. The power cord connects to one side with a standard 16/3 cord, as does the wire to the motor. I completely removed the power portion (to the wall) and set it aside. I purchased some additional 16/3 cord and used it to extend the (from) motor cord up to the new switch position. I utilized a predrilled hole near where the cord would exit the stand for ground. I ran it up to the new switch and connected both cords up. I utilized one of the mounting holes for a ground. I realize I technically have two grounds, but it doesn't affect operation. I left myself plenty of slack for the next upgrade to the saw, which will be done and detailed TBD. I probably could have saved a buck by buying 2 feet less of cord, but I wanted plenty to work with. I reinstalled the old switch and box to close up the hole temporarily. I need to replace the painter's tape that is covering the holes with electrical tape. These holes were made accidentally because the instructions were poor.
Total cost of modification: $23 - switch, + $7 16/3 cord and connectors = $30
Saw upgrades to date: switch, V-belt, nylon washers for motor, zero clearance insert, cool blocks, duplicator pin.
Next up: riser block
It's starting to finally feel like fall in Georgia, and that means less work out in the shop since it's not heated, or particularly well insulated. The insulation part I hope to have remedied by next winter, but we'll see. That involves getting the low side jacked up and on a skid, then putting insulation under the floor, since I'm sure there's not any. Plus, a new window and new doors. I think everything but getting it level is realistic, and could probably get done this winter if I really set my mind to it. But the point is, I'm not going to be doing a bunch of projects out there for a few months. So my attention is turning to continuing the shop reorganization and some upgrades to some of my tools.
I have a Central Machinery 14" bandsaw. This is a decent basic bandsaw, but at the price point it's lacking in a couple of things that the pricier versions have. One of those things is a decent power switch.
On the CM, the power switch is located on the base, a very awkward position to turn on. I suppose one could use their foot to turn it off, but it's not natural. So, I ordered a push-button paddle switch from MCLS. There's already mounting holes for it, since the saw is a copy/same thing of the other 14" import saws elsewhere available. Installation is fairly straight-forward, but can be time consuming thanks to the strain reliefs and any holes you might want to thread it through. A thirty minute job can stretch into two hours easily when you figure out you have to backtrack some to get one little connector on. And so it did for me, although it turned into two days because I had almost finished when it got too dark. Then I almost finished again when it was time to eat lunch.
The switch is located on the C-arm of the saw, between elbow and shoulder height. Much more usable, and it comes with a paddle off switch, and a lockout for the on position. Meaning, you have to pull the paddle out and then hit the on button for it to work.
What I did was I removed the stock switch from the base, and disconnected all the wires. The power cord connects to one side with a standard 16/3 cord, as does the wire to the motor. I completely removed the power portion (to the wall) and set it aside. I purchased some additional 16/3 cord and used it to extend the (from) motor cord up to the new switch position. I utilized a predrilled hole near where the cord would exit the stand for ground. I ran it up to the new switch and connected both cords up. I utilized one of the mounting holes for a ground. I realize I technically have two grounds, but it doesn't affect operation. I left myself plenty of slack for the next upgrade to the saw, which will be done and detailed TBD. I probably could have saved a buck by buying 2 feet less of cord, but I wanted plenty to work with. I reinstalled the old switch and box to close up the hole temporarily. I need to replace the painter's tape that is covering the holes with electrical tape. These holes were made accidentally because the instructions were poor.
Total cost of modification: $23 - switch, + $7 16/3 cord and connectors = $30
Saw upgrades to date: switch, V-belt, nylon washers for motor, zero clearance insert, cool blocks, duplicator pin.
Next up: riser block
01 November 2011
Router cubby
While I was gathering information and inspiration for redesigning the shop, I cam across a set of shelves for routers. I took what I saw as an idea and adapted it to work in my shop. Since I routinely make mathematical errors in my work, I took the opportunity to design this from scratch and make this my first Sketchup-derived project.
The render of the model is below, and you can find the Sketchup file here.
It's not very conplex: three shelves, with a portion of the shelf removed to let bits hang below the base, two sides and a back. That's it. It's sized for 1/2" plywood, and that should be all you need as routers and bases aren't too terribly heavy. One thing I would change in the future is to size the shelves about 2" wider so that the bases and routers wouldn't have to sit diagonally. The wood is all scrap out of my shop so it was a $0 project.
I cut the pieces to size on the table saw, then used some tape to gang the shelves together to cut the holes. That was accomplished with a forstner bit on the drill press, and the valley was cut with the band saw. I cut the dados on the table saw - one on each piece for the shelves, and one on each side at the back to accept the rear panel. It was assembled using glue and I went a bit overboard with some brad nails. I used some nails on one top edge, plus some on the other side to mount the more important accessories that otherwise didn't have a home.
The render of the model is below, and you can find the Sketchup file here.
It's not very conplex: three shelves, with a portion of the shelf removed to let bits hang below the base, two sides and a back. That's it. It's sized for 1/2" plywood, and that should be all you need as routers and bases aren't too terribly heavy. One thing I would change in the future is to size the shelves about 2" wider so that the bases and routers wouldn't have to sit diagonally. The wood is all scrap out of my shop so it was a $0 project.
I cut the pieces to size on the table saw, then used some tape to gang the shelves together to cut the holes. That was accomplished with a forstner bit on the drill press, and the valley was cut with the band saw. I cut the dados on the table saw - one on each piece for the shelves, and one on each side at the back to accept the rear panel. It was assembled using glue and I went a bit overboard with some brad nails. I used some nails on one top edge, plus some on the other side to mount the more important accessories that otherwise didn't have a home.
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